Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has always shaped its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their children do not want to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to learn these tales and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
